It is dusk. We have made camp in a sloping meadow at the end of a spur, tucked between hills and tree-filled valleys. The last of the light burnishes the long grass in gold. Our day has been spent clinging to the interior of an intrepid 4WD as it negotiated the full range of its capabilities, hiking across a plateau, swapping between binoculars and long camera lenses. We have come to Bulgaria in search of the new wild horses of Europe and with the help of Hristo Hristov, Rewilding Rhodopes’ horse project officer, we have been delivered straight to them on Day One.